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Recipes that celebrate California soul cuisine Los Angeles Times

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The fat used in a roux may be butter, shortening, lard, oil, or even bacon drippings. The longer it cooks the darker it gets, which will add more flavor but decrease its thickening ability. There is also a light or blonde traditional Cajun version that uses only vegetable oil and flour. There are no hard and fast rules for making gumbo beyond the basic roux, okra, or filé powder, along with your imagination. There are probably as many distinctive recipes for gumbo as there are cooks in Louisiana.

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More Gumbo Recipes to Try

You can also find pre-mixed Cajun seasoning blends at most grocery stores. Food columnist Jenn Harris’ Homemade Crunchwrap Supreme is perfect for when you’re craving fast-casual American-style tacos, but don’t want to brave the drive-through lines. First, I dug through our archives to find recipes from “Jemima Code” and “Jubilee” cookbook author — and former L.A. In the spirit of Black History Month and L.A.’s Black-led taco scene, I’ve collected a handful of recipes that celebrate the evolution of California soul food. More than 30 years ago, a pioneering class of Black chefs in L.A., many of whom were trained in their home kitchens, put their stamp on the taco, inducting it into California soul cuisine. The dish — what I’ve come to think of as the Black taco — has established itself as a local staple, with new Black-owned taco stands still building on its legacy today.

Okra or filé (FEE-lay) powder:

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With more than 100 years under its belt, Arnaud’s in the French Quarter is no doubt one of the top spots for Creole cuisine. Their gumbo is a classic, both the seafood and the chicken and andouille versions. Enjoy a bowl in one of the elegant dining rooms and you’ll be tasting a true piece of history. The late, great legend chef Leah Chase is sorely missed, but her legacy of Creole cooking can still be enjoyed at Dooky Chase’s.

gumbo house

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Gumbo is a rich, flavorful dish—much more than just a stew—full of Creole spice. Classic versions include chicken and sausage gumbo or seafood gumbo. Traditionally, it’s thickened with okra or filé (dried ground sassafras leaves), and while some chefs put their spin on it, the roux and a mix of flavorful spices are standard elements. Served over rice, gumbo is a complete, comforting meal, though a side of grilled cheese and/or potato salad is always welcome. Gumbo Ya Ya is a house specialty at Mr. B’s, a neighborhood bistro in the French Quarter. You can get an excellent seafood gumbo—with shrimp, crabmeat, oysters and okra—but you won’t want to miss the meat-only Ya Ya.

From tacos to gumbo, recipes to celebrate the evolution of California soul food

Owned by the deeply-rooted Baquet family, Lil’ Dizzy’s has been serving a Creole filé gumbo from a treasured family recipe for decades. An exceptionally nourishing version, it features ham, smoked sausage, crab, shrimp and the Baquet family’s own hot sausage as well as their own gumbo base. You’ll find modern takes on traditional Louisiana cuisine at this convivial spot in the Lower Garden District. The smoky chicken and andouille gumbo is at once familiar and surprising, a comforting bowl that’s perfect on a cool day. If you can’t get enough of it—or you want to share the wealth with loved ones around the country—you can now pick up a take-home version of the award-winning gumbo next door at Gris-Gris to Go-Go. The thickening agent is most gumbos is a roux, a combination of fat and flour.

Simply add the roux to chicken broth in the crockpot, then the sausage, cooked chicken, okra, vegetable trio, and seasoning and let cook for several hours. This Authentic New Orleans Gumbo is made with a dark roux, vegetables, chicken, sausage, and shrimp, and served over rice. Neyow’s in Mid-City is known for its New Orleans homestyle cooking—Creole and Southern dishes with a flare unique to the city.

Now that you've mastered the essential roux, it's time to make some gumbo. The dish is so revered that there are two popular festivals devoted to it. For all other times of year—especially in the cooler months—here’s where to get some of the best gumbo in New Orleans. Common flavorings for gumbo include cayenne pepper and black pepper, dry mustard, paprika, sage, cumin, bay leaves, thyme, and parsley.

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Watch Chef John make intensely flavorful gumbo with braised duck legs, smoky andouille sausage, and succulent shrimp. Mirlitons (also known as chayote squash) sometimes show up in gumbo, as do tomatoes, depending upon the cook's preference. A peek into a pot of gumbo is a lesson in the rich history of Louisiana. Learn about gumbo and get tips and recipes to make this beloved Cajun-Creole dish. As you probably have gathered, I love making comfort food style recipes that use lots of fresh produce and real ingredients. This gumbo is no exception, and if you like this then I know you’ll love Jambalaya and Instant Pot Red Beans and Rice.

We had a really fun neighbor growing up who was from New Orleans and made a fantastic homemade Gumbo! I’m so thankful my Mom took him up on his offer to teach her how to make a true, authentic Gumbo! Decades later it is a beloved recipe that has become a staple in our family and we have made it hundreds of times! One of the most iconic New Orleans dishes, gumbo is a staple of home cooking. Many locals will say that the best bowl of gumbo in New Orleans is made by a relative, or comes from a recipe passed down over generations.

It’s a rich, country-style gumbo with an extra dark roux, plenty of Creole seasoning, chicken and andouille sausage. This rich and delicious gumbo is a great way to use up that leftover Thanksgiving turkey! Spicy andouille sausage and the Holy Trinity of peppers, celery, and onions make this a classic and balanced dish.

I love the freshness from the green bell pepper, onion, celery and parsley. The gumbo at Restaurant R’evolution, located in the Royal Sonesta in the French Quarter, is nothing short of indulgent. A truly photo-worthy dish, the signature Death by Gumbo starts with a tiny quail—stuffed with poached oysters, smoked andouille sausage and rice—centered in a bowl. The rich, dark gumbo is then poured into the bowl tableside in a ritual befitting the dish.

“If she says she’s making tacos, it doesn’t matter where I am — I’m on the way,” he says, laughing. “Being Black and growing up in Los Angeles, they were in every household. Everyone’s mom made tacos,” Alisa Reynolds, chef and owner of My 2 Cents on Pico Boulevard, told me for my L.A. Times Food feature “How we made tacos a Black thing in L.A.,” published this week. The ingredients and cooking techniques involved come from a remarkable array of cultures and traditions — all of which have combined over the centuries to create a uniquely American story. Dig deeper into the evolution of Black tacos with my essay, as well as a guide with nine places to try Black tacos across L.A.

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